The velvet curtains have closed on an era at Valentino. After 25 remarkable years, Pierpaolo Piccioli has announced his departure from the Italian fashion house. While the news sends shockwaves through the fashion world, it’s also a moment to celebrate Piccioli’s transformative impact on Valentino. Let’s stroll down memory lane, exploring Piccioli’s journey with Valentino, the milestones he achieved, and the legacy he left behind.
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Here is a summary of his journey from 1999 to 2024…
Finding His Footing: 1999-2008
Piccioli’s Valentino story began in 1999, when he, alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri, was entrusted with the task of revitalizing the brand’s accessory category. As Piccioli himself reminisced to Vogue, “I was happy that I arrived there when I was all grown up.” He entered a world steeped in tradition, where Valentino’s “formal—very, very formal” aesthetic, as he described it, reigned supreme. This structured environment provided a valuable foundation for Piccioli, allowing him to immerse himself in the intricacies of the fashion system.
Both Piccioli and Chiuri’s talent and dedication quickly gained recognition. Their collaborative spirit propelled them through the ranks, leading them to take the reins of the younger, more playful Red Valentino line in 2003. This experience honed their collaborative skills and prepared them for the bigger challenges ahead.
A Collaborative Spirit and a Bold Vision: 2008-2016
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A pivotal moment arrived in 2008 when they were appointed co-creative directors of Valentino. This period marked a turning point for the brand. While respecting Valentino’s heritage, Piccioli and Chiuri began to establish a bolder vision, one that reflected their sensibilities. During this collaborative era, Piccioli’s rise to prominence began as he co-created collections that garnered significant attention. His exceptional talent for color would soon become a defining characteristic of his work.
Shaping Valentino’s Future as Sole Creative Director: 2016-2024
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Following Chiuri’s departure to Dior in 2016, Piccioli took the helm as Valentino’s sole creative director. This marked a new chapter, not just for Valentino but for Piccioli himself. In a heartfelt Instagram message, Piccioli acknowledged the significance of this transition, stating, “Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows.”
This period cemented Piccioli’s status as a fashion icon. He championed inclusivity within the brand, promoting diversity through the “Di. Vas“ initiative and selecting ambassadors who defied traditional boundaries. Lewis Hamilton, the celebrated Formula One driver known for his bold fashion choices, and Suga, the passionate rapper and style influencer from BTS, are just a few examples of Piccioli’s commitment to inclusivity.
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Beyond inclusivity, Piccioli pushed the boundaries of Valentino’s aesthetic. He introduced innovative elements like streetwear influences, the now-iconic “PP Pink” shade, and structured silhouettes that redefined Valentino’s signature elegance. His couture creations became red-carpet favorites, with celebrities like Zendaya and Lady Gaga gracing the world stage in his breathtaking designs. His influence also extended beyond the red carpet, fueling the “Barbiecore” trend with his “Pink PP” creations.
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As a result of these achievements, he was awarded a Time 100 honor, a place on the BoF 500 list, and the Fashion Award for Designer of the Year. Piccioli’s final collection for Valentino, Fall 2024, presented entirely in black, could be interpreted as a farewell to his long tenure.
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A Well-Deserved Accolade
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As Pierpaolo Piccioli embarks on a new adventure, the fashion world applauds his remarkable career at Valentino. Jacopo Venturini, CEO of Valentino, expressed his gratitude: “I am grateful to Pierpaolo for his role as creative director and for his vision, commitment, and creativity that has brought the Maison Valentino to what it stands for today.” Similar sentiments were echoed by Valentino chairman Rachid Mohamed Rachid, who added, “We extend our deepest gratitude to Pierpaolo for writing an important chapter in the history of the Maison Valentino. His contribution over the past 25 years will leave an indelible mark.“
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Piccioli shared a poignant message on Instagram, reflecting on his journey at Valentino. In Italian, he wrote:
“Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows. I’ve been in this company for 25 years, and for 25 years I’ve existed and I’ve lived with the people who have woven the weaves of this beautiful story that is mine and ours… Thanks to Mr. Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti who have blessed me with their trust, and thanks to every single person who made this possible in one way or another. It was a privilege and an honor to share my journey, and my dreams, with you.”
With Piccioli’s departure, Valentino bids farewell to a visionary who reshaped the brand’s identity and pushed the boundaries of fashion. As the fashion world eagerly anticipates Piccioli’s next chapter, his legacy at Valentino remains an enduring testament to his talent, creativity, and unwavering commitment to inclusivity and innovation.
Featured image: Niccolò Berretta for The Hollywood Reporter Roma
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